From Field to Flavour: Welsh Family Farms Redefining Artisan Cheese

Nestled on the outskirts of a quaint village in Mid Wales, Bontnewydd Farm is a place that holds community at the heart of their ethos. Run by the Williams family for three generations, the dairy farm has long been a cornerstone of the local landscape. 

Brothers Llew and Ieuan Williams now work on the farm under the guidance of their parents, Eirian and John. Recently joining the farm is Beth Jones‑Davies, Llew’s fiancée, who brings eight years of experience in agronomy. Together, the family has expanded what was once a traditional farming business into an increasingly diverse enterprise, with artisan cheese as its newest venture.

Llaeth y Bont began in 2020 during the Covid‑19 pandemic, when a demand for fresh, locally produced food surged. For Llew, whose background is in engineering, it was an opportunity to put his skills to practice. 

“I thought I could put together a pasteurising room and sell direct to the public from the farm.”  Explains Llew, “So we bolted a few things together here and there, and it seemed to fall into place. We’ve been providing farm-fresh milk to the public from our vending machines ever since.”

Cheese-making soon followed, after Llew saw an opportunity to do more with their milk, and by August 2024, their hobby had eventually turned into more of a commercially driven business. 

They began finding slight variations in the product, from cows grazing on different pastures and introducing a variety of proteins, resulting in different impacts on the milk and cheese itself. 

“We’re always looking at what types of leys we have in the ground and making sure there are many different species.” Explains Beth, also underlining the importance of sustainability in their business. Rotational grazing, herbal leys and species‑rich pastures play a central role in maintaining soil health and biodiversity. 

“We want everything to work together in harmony, combining my agronomy background with Llew’s engineering skillset and his family’s needs for the farm.”

Additionally, being able to produce the cheese on the same site as where they milk their cows, means that it truly is a zero-mile product.

The cheeses are crafted in a small‑scale micro dairy where precision is essential. Each batch requires careful monitoring of butterfat, protein levels, cultures, rennet and pH, with exact timing dictating flavour and texture. “There is still so much to learn from each batch of cheese, and frequency of making is key to creating a consistent product” explains Llew.

Naming the cheeses also took some thought, as they needed to reflect the quality as well as the unique heritage of their product. As the farm is forged on the historic landscape of Mathrafal castle, the pair settled on Brochwel and Bleddyn, both renowned princes who had resided in the area from time to time.

The business now supplies fresh milk, milkshakes and cheese via self‑serve farm vending machines, as well as wholesaling to local cafés. Balancing all the new ventures, particularly heading into the busy spring season, has been a challenge. However, support from Welsh Government-funded programme Cywain, has been critical.

“Having Louise on the other end of the phone has been pivotal.” Says Beth, discussing the advice and knowledge that Regional Development Manager, Louise McNutt, has been able to offer. “Cywain has helped us realise what is achievable, putting us in touch with the people we need and opening doors.”

From access to mentors, consultants and a spot on the coveted Accelerator Programme, Cywain has helped shape Llaeth y Bont into a business with confidence and direction.

“I'd describe Beth and Llew as cautiously ambitious,” says Louise, Cywain’s Regional Growth Manager for the pair. “They have an energy and curiosity that's driving an exciting new chapter in their farm’s story, and it's steeped in a respect for the work and tradition of previous generations. Full of ideas and a willingness to soak up as much expertise and experience as they can, it's a real pleasure to get to work with them. “ 

Bontnewydd’s cheese‑making story is one of determination, curiosity, and community spirit. What began with selling produce to neighbours during lockdown has evolved into a diverse and growing enterprise, with community and tradition at its heart.

Another Welsh dairy farm who is taking an innovative approach to cheese making is Gwarffynnon Farm. Based on the outskirts of Lampeter, Elliw and brother Aron have introduced a Mediterranean-style cheese alongside their milk. The product was carefully trialled over a period of around two years with the support of Food Centre Wales, through the HELIX Programme, and they chose the name Caws Silian after the surrounding area. 

Driven by a deep connection to their land and livestock, the sibling’s passion for farming and food has led to the creation of the fresh and delicious cheese.  The product was carefully trialled over a period of around two years at food and drink consultancy, Food

Centre Wales. During this time, they were able to work closely with a cheese specialist to focus on understanding flavour profiles and exploring how best to showcase the exceptional quality of the milk available from their cows. 

The decision to develop a Mediterranean-style cheese came from a desire to add value to their fresh milk.

“Fresh milk has a narrow window of around four to five days,” explains Elliw, “which limits opportunities, unless it can be transformed into something with a longer shelf life. Having already invested in a milk processing and pasteurisation unit on the farm, the next step was to expand the product range.”

Initially, this type of cheese wasn’t something the family had grown up eating. But thanks to Food Centre Wales’ unit in Horeb, and being able to experiment with different ideas, it quickly became a favourite. More importantly, they discovered that their milk produced an exceptionally good Mediterranean-style cheese.

While Wales already boasts an impressive selection of cheeses, they identified a gap in the market. This cheese offered something different: a versatile product that works as a meat substitute or accompaniment, equally at home in fries, burgers, curries, risottos or simply grilled. Crucially, it’s not just a summer salad cheese, but an ingredient that can enhance meals all year round, whilst potentially having a starring role in some dishes as the main event. 

The family milk around 100 cows daily At Gwarffynnon, and because of this, scale is a conscious choice. Keeping production manageable allows them to sustain local employment, retain production within the family, and maintain a strong connection to every part of the process. 

When designing the brand, the naming of the cheese was deeply personal to the family. “The nearest town is Lampeter,” says Elliw, “but we are closer to a small village called Silian. We live just above it, and it is a part of our DNA as a business, and as people.”

Wanting customers to know exactly where their food comes from is essential for Elliw and Aron. “We want people to know and trust the product’s origins, with clear traceability. Our produce has a strong connection with the land we farm, and the cows we keep and care for. The area we farm is known for its rich soil and excellent grassland, which is a perfect spot for our Caws Silian to begin its journey.” 

Naturally, with stepping into any product development, there are challenges. This is where Government-funded programmes like Cywain can step in. 

“As farmers, we were new to a lot of things. Through Cywain, Ffion (Regional Growth Manager for Cywain), acted as a “matchmaker” when it came to various hurdles.”

Graphic design was an extremely important aspect of Caws Silian, and Cywain connected them with a designer who explored visual ideas, as well as ensuring

the brand accurately represented the cheese itself. 

“We also began working on a marketing strategy, which was a steep learning curve, but a priceless and important tool.”

Access to expertise has been pivotal. Elliw and Aron emphasise the importance of working with specialists who can share their knowledge, while also staying true to their own vision. Being open to feedback, without losing sight of what matters to them, has shaped the development of Caws Silian.

“Support from Cywain has been second to none”, says Elliw, discussing how the programme connected them with delis and restaurants, which became a vital step in growing the business. 

“The only way we would have reached the specialists was through Cywain. The ability to tap into years of experience instantly, to pick up the phone and discuss anything from pricing and packaging to refrigerated distribution, has been so valuable. Ffion’s support has been, and continues to be, amazing.”

Elliw and Aron’s Regional Growth Manager, Ffion Jones, thoroughly enjoys working with the pair.

"It's been a pleasure to support Elliw and Aron on the creation and development of Caws Silian and a lot of fun. They are knowledgeable, passionate and driven and have created a deliciously new cheese, firmly rooted in Ceredigion, showing the entrepreneurial spirt that is so abundant in rural Wales.”

Caws Silian is already available in certain places, such as Blas ar Fwyd, Rattray’s Butchers in Aberystwyth and Wally’s Delicatessen in Cardiff, to name a few. 

The family’s hope is to continue to grow the business, whilst also honouring the process by keeping the deep-rooted farming knowledge in mind. From the fields above Silian to the tastebuds across Wales, Caws Silian’s journey has only just begun.

If you’re a food or drink producer in Wales feeling unsure about your next steps, you don’t have to navigate it alone. Cywain offers tailored, pan‑Wales support to help businesses at every stage of their growth journey, from shaping ideas and developing products to building confidence, connections and long‑term sustainability. With access to experienced mentors, practical business and marketing advice, and a dedicated Growth Manager, Cywain is there to help you unlock opportunities, overcome challenges and realise your business’s full potential. Visit Cywain.cymru for more information.