Martha’s Vineyard
We’re sitting on a balcony, the buzz of happy conversation around us, looking out over a marina full of impressive yachts. The baking sun shimmers off the water as we peruse a menu stuffed with local produce, including seafood landed directly across the harbour. It doesn’t get much better. Are we in Biscay, Amalfi maybe, or Cape Cod? Nope — we’re in Milford Haven. And it’s glorious.
As we deliberate over the menu, enjoying a pint of Tenby Harbour ‘Stack Rock’, Dan, Martha’s friendly owner, talks us through the specials. Turns out he’s from a family of local fishermen, so it’s no wonder fish features strongly. And it’s all local, landed in Milford or nearby. It’s an ethos that proud local Dan extends to all other parts of the menu too – steaks and lamb, breads and veg, puddings and booze.
And boy does it make a difference. The Gower Mussels, my starter, were the plumpest, juiciest and tastiest I’ve ever had: sweet, sea-salty bon-bons of flavour, presented in a cracking cream and Pembrokeshire cider sauce. The tart, dry cider wonderfully cut through the deliciously garlicky cream, eagerly mopped up with a local tomato and herb focaccia, smothered in butter from nearby Netherend Farm. B’s honey-glazed halloumi hit the spot too - perfectly cooked and served with a zesty, spicy harissa and sumac yoghurt to complement the sweet honey, rounded off with crunchy, fresh pea shoots.
For mains, I had to go for the Pembrokeshire Sea Bass special, landed that morning. Exactly as a really fresh sea bass fillet should be, it was delicate and sweet, with a slightly buttery, nutty flavour, grilled perfectly so the moist, firm flakes just melt in your mouth. Exquisite. The warm paprika of the patatas bravas side was a clever choice that added contrast, as did the punchy zest and herb hit of the lime and coriander yoghurt.
B’s homemade Beetroot and Vegan Feta Ravioli was no less impressive. Thoughtfully put together, it looked beautiful — all purple and green jewels — and tasted great. The sweet beetroot, tangy feta, sage butter, toasted pine nuts and herb oil worked harmoniously to create a very special dish.
As is our habit, we also shared a bowl of chips. And Martha’s came up trumps here too. From local Norton Farm spuds, twice-cooked with skin-on, they were crisp on the outside, soft in the middle and got a huge thumbs-up. All washed down with a delightful, fresh, dry Ke Bonta Pinot Grigio.
Despite the weather, I opted for a traditional, seemingly wintery, pud, Spiced Rum Sponge, but with a twist, or four. The sponge was delightfully light, fluffy and not OTT sweet. Twist number one is the extraordinary sheep’s milk (from their own farm) infused spiced rum from local company Fifth Flock, which elevates the sponge, adding rich cinnamon, clove and ginger. Twists two, three and four add a summery, tropical slant: a tart and sweet mango and apple salsa, crunchy toasted coconut, and finally, a light, tangy, mellow vanilla crème fraîche to cut through the sweetness. A: great combo. B: couldn’t resist an old favourite, Chocolate Brownie Sundae. Arriving in a large cocktail glass, it was a glamorous and delicious concoction of creamy ice cream (from neighbouring Scoop), rich moist brownies and sharp sweet raspberries that really struck the holiday vibe.
With an amazing location, great service and the freshest local produce prepared with real skill and plenty of careful thought, you should forget Portofino and head for Milford Haven.
Martha’s Vineyard, Milford Haven Marina
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